Villa Barbarini

 One of the most magnificent villas in Rome, built by Maffeo Barberini, Pope Urban Vii in 1622, It was one of the largest private residences in Rome.  The Barberini sold their palace to the state in 1949, which, with the Corsini palace, became the National Gallery.  It is one of the most under-visited museums in Rome, competing with som many other famous collections (Vatican, Borghesi), and so Don and I almost had it to ourselves.  It has the rather off-putting title of the National Gallery of Antique Art, which is a problematic title considering the presence of Caravaggio, Gentileschi, and others of the period. The building has two magnificent staircases, one by Bernini, and one by Borromini!

This was Don's and I last day in Rome, and we ended with one of our great meals in La Francesca. 

The trip was life-altering in the sense that Rome was so much more than I could ever have imagined.  What a treat to see it with my twin, who shared my enthusiasm with everything we did and saw.  I think we both thought of the Borghese as the artistically most satisfying unified experience, and for me, personally, seeing the Forum from the Capitoline Hill, was an epiphany. 

I've said it many times, but it needs to be said one more time: Thank you, Sally, and Neal, for your whole creative process in getting Don and I together in Rome.  Of course, we both know how much more delightful the experience would have been with the two of you along to comment, point out, debate, postulate, ruminate, etc. etc. on all the art, architecture and food (!).  How much better a glass of Barbaresco would have been if we could have shared it with you.  

So we have to find a time in the future to do just that.  

Fra Angelico  1395-1455
Ascension, Last Judgement, Pentecost

Il Perugino   1450-1523
St. Philip Benizi

The Palazzo was the least decorated of all the  palatial homes we visited, with the exception 
of a few magnificent ceilings

Luce di Paolo  1435-1491
Adoring Angels 

Pietro Grill  1430-1498
The Archangel Michael

            I freely admit my fascination with the art of painting clothes, armour, jewelry.

Dei Crocifissi  1355-1399
Enthroned Virgin and Child with Saints

detail of above

Josse Lieferinxe  1493-1508  
Pilgrims at the Tomb of St. Sebastian
Fascinating work by a painter from Provence.

Niccolo de Pietro   1394-1427
The Coronation of the Virgin

Giambono   1420-1462
Virgin and Child
Amazing frame and background, and truly amazing faces.

The Bernini staircase

Another beautiful ceiling

Lorenzo Lotto  1480-1556
Mystical Marriage of St. Cahterine with Saints Jerome, George, Sebastian, 
Anthony Abbot, and Nicholas of Bari
No wonder her eyes have a long-suffering look.

Sodoma  1477-1549
The Rape of the Sabine Women
There is some suggestion that Sodoma got his name from his close 
(make that very close) friendship with Rafael

Marco Bigio   1500-1550
The Three Parcae
The Parcae were the female personifications of destiny, who directed the lives 
(and deaths) of humand and gods.  Often called the Fates in English.  Greek: the Moirai.
Again, aren't you glad I looked that up?

Bronzini  1503-1572
Portrait of Stefano IV Colonna
A lieutenant general of the army of the Duke Cosimo de' Medici
(AYGILTU?)

detail 

Quentin Metsys   1466-1530
Portrait of Erasmus of Rotterdam

Hans Holbein   1497-1543
Portrait of Henry VIII
Ah, the arrogance, the smugness, the lust, the codpiece.  
Why couldn't he lose his head?

Jeeeeze!

Much better!
Raffael  1483-1520
La Fornarina
The portrait of La Fornarina (the baker) is thought to be Margherita Luti, a lover of
Rafael.  Other interpretations were that she was a prostitute (the yellow headpiece protected her from being prosecuted for nakedness), or that she may have been a witch.  Whoever she was, she is depicted as a very beautiful and voluptous women, far different from most depictions of women at the time. 
(AYGILIU?)

Another ceiling panel. 

Maarten van Heemskerck  1498-1574
Lamentations over the Dead Christ
Whaat aaa Greeaat Faace!

Bernini  1598-1680
Portrait of Urban VIII
This is, of course, the Barbarini that took all of the Bronze from the portico of the Pantheon
and used it to build Bernini's baldacchino in St. Peter's, 
thus earning the famous criticism:
"What the barbarians did not do, the Barbarini did"

Bernini
Portrait of Urbano VIII

Jacopo Zucchi   1541-1596
Portrait of Clelia Farnese
Jacopo's chef was the first cook to try cooking the long squash like vegetable, and so 
then it became known as.................

Jacopo Robusti   1519-1594
Christ and the Adulteress
Jacopo was a very healthy, muscular male, very............

Caravaggio   1571-1610
Judith Beheading Holofernes
One of the most graphic and violent of paintings, I almost didn't include it, except that I was struck 
by the resemblance of Judith to Scarlett Johansson, who would be perfect for the part, should a movie ever be created on the subject.  Unlikely

Peeking out a window

A European Goldfinch!  (very tiny detail of a large painting).

Paul Bril  1554-1626
View of Giove

Caravaggio
Narcissus
A striking example of Chiaroscuro, or the use of strong contrasts between
light and dark. 

Bernardo Strozzi  1581-1644
The Charity of St. Lawrence
A remarkable and gifted artist.  I must find out more about him. 

Artemisia Gentileschi   1593-1653
Allegory of Painting

The huge ceiling in the main hall is by Pietro de Cortona entitled
The Triumph of Divine Providence and the Fulfilment of its
Purposes under Pope Urbin VIII
Sucking up on the grandest possible scale.

detail

detail

And one final picture, the great staircase by Borromin

A very great collection of art, principally canvas, and strongly recommended
While one shouldn't choose it over the Borghese, it deserved far more attention than
almost all tourists give it, which is a great mistake.  A name change wouldn't hurt
(the "Caravaggio").  If you have an extra day unplanned, do visit.  Don and I discovered it 
by walking down for lunch after our visit to Santo Andrea ala Quirinale.