Monday, October 24, 2022

Three Churches, two free Michelangelo

 There are over 900 (!!) churches in Rome, which makes it probably the best city in the world to see church architecture, given the exception that there is only one Gothic church.  Siri says that it was all timing, that Rome had a history of heavy stone walls to keep out the heat, and by the time Gothic style had developed, (mostly in France), the Italians had already had in place traditions that they would keep up until the Baroque era.  Huge amounts of glass would have made the Italian churches ovens in the Summer. 

So here are three radically different churches, each with very special attractions, each one worth a visit.  The Sant'Ignazio Loyola has one of the most spectacular and triumphant ceilings ever painted, the Santa Maria sopra Minerva is the one Gothic church in Rome, and has a resurrected Christ by Michelangelo, considered by many not to be up to his standards, but certainly admired, and finally, Saint Pietro in Vincoli, or St. Peter in Chains, which dates back to 411, and which contains the incomplete tomb of Pope Julius II, which was originally intended for St. Peter's but because of Julius' lack of attention, and Michelangelo's other projects, remained unfinished.  The tomb's major attraction is Moses, huge, powerful, one of the great artistic creations in marble.  Michelangelo also carved the two figures on each side, Leah ("active love"), and Rachel ("faith"), both carved in old age, and far more at peace than Moses.  Again, thanks to Sally, we might have overlooked this.  


Saint Ignazio di Loyola

The Jesuits have had a huge influence in Rome, both in churhes, and in politics. 
This church started out as a rather plain structure, rather reserved and humble, but as time progressed, the Jesuit became more confident, and more luxurious. 




This is a flat panel, painted to look as if a dome were there.  Somehow, I find it a bit ridiculous. Trying for that angle somehow defeats the whole concept. 


A magnificent side chapel 



Various beautiful marbles

And the great glory of the church, the ceiling by Andrea Pozzo,
the Apotheosis of St. Ignatius

Santa Maria sopra Minerva

It was extremely dark in the church.  Fortunately, the camera can see
better than the eye. 







There were two of these opposite the altar.

A side chapel, added later by a wealthy patron. 



Michelangelo's "Risen Christ"
Not many people think of Christ in this way!

The church owned this obelisk from Egypt, and commissioned Bernini to design the
elephant to carry it.  

Saint Pietro in Vincoli

One of the oldest churches in Rome, with added portico and ceiling frescos







And here are the "chains"!

Pope Julius II tomb, and the monumental Moses as centerpiece. 


The horns are evidently from a miss-translation of the bible, probably originally meant to be 
shafts of light

I am constantly reminded, in Rome, of how art can transform a city.  
And what a pleasure to experience it. 


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